So another couple of weeks have passed, and I've been busy working overtime so work on the car has been slow.
Caring
on where I left off, the cross brace had to be finished before I could
do anything else. So that meant finishing the left hand chassis mount
and then linking it to the main cross tube once the tube was squared up
against the shell.
I
decided to weld the smaller tube to the cross brace first in at effort
to prevent any twist from lifting the chassis mount. But it was soon
fully welded and bolted back into place once I had checked it for square
against the axle hump.
Now
the brace was sat in place, I could see which, if any of the existing
holes could be used. Unfortunately, only one lined up and even that
wasn't 100%. So I decided to weld the holes up and drill new ones.
There's a tip I was told once to help weld up small holes in thin sheet.
It involves using something I know as a welder's spoon. It's basically a
good sized chunk of copper that is used to back the hole to stop the
weld dropping away from the panel. It means you can use a lower setting
and help avoid distortion in the panel. Copper is used as molten steel,
ie the weld itself, won't stick to it. Once welded the panels are ground
flat to hide the fact that there was ever a hole there.
With
the boot floor sorted out, I decided to make the Watt's linkage
brackets that would hang under the boot before drilling the holes in
case I cocked something up with the measurements. These were cut from
3mm sheet and folded, rather than weld two bits together. I based the
template for them on the one for the cross brace feet to help keep the
shapes even:
That
shape was then transferred to the steel and the pivot holes drilled
before bolting all four together so I could finish them all to the same
shape. They were all then bent to suit.
With
the brackets ready, the cross brace was used a drilling guide so I
could save time farting about. The hole spacings were then transferred
to the Watt's brackets for drilling so they could be bolted into place.
It
soon became obvious that the existing way round that the Watt's
linkages had been fitted didn't line up right so I had to take both
linkages out and turn the pivots round as they are fitted with an
offset. With them offset the other way, all was well and the links lined
up centrally within their brackets, just as I had hoped and planned.
So
this was the point I'd been hoping for for some time. The rear
suspension is now complete! And whilst the brakes still need sorting at
some point, they can wait for now. Since it is now sorted, I could bolt
the rear wheels on and lower the car to the floor. And it does now feel
like a car, not just a shell or chassis. Although it did take me ages to
gradually lower it down as I hadn't realised that the centre of balance
is now just about level with the rear bulkhead. So trying to lift the
car up to remove the stands just made it pivot the wrong way, which was a
little risky when working on my own late of an evening. Finally it was
down and roughly levelled, although I will need to do it again as I need
the wheels to start the front suspension.
The
car now feels a lot smaller, as it's no longer sat so far off the
floor. It's good, but also a little odd still, seeing it with wheels.
I'm just glad the ride height looks about right and when bouncing it up
and down there's no creaks or groans and the springs even feel about
right. But I suspect that will change once it's at kerb weight and being
hustled down a back road. I also seem to have a reasonable amount of
wheel clearance, but I need someone to bounce the car whilst I lie under
it to check that more thoroughly.
So finally, it's now a wheelbarrow!!